Doors in the bath with their own hands step by step - instruction for beginners
- 27 Jul 06:30
- Repair Of
The true wooden bath is justly considered not only a place for hygienic procedures - washing, but also an excellent means for removing psychological stress, restoring strength after heavy workdays. However, in order to achieve such an effect, it is necessary to createoptimal conditions for maintaining a certain atmosphere in the premises - the required temperature and humidity modes.
Doors and windows - these are the elements of the structure through which the room can penetrate the cold air, so when choosing and installing them, you need to act especially carefully and neatly. Make a door to the bath with your own hands, step by step moving from one stage to another - for the power of anyone who knows how to work with carpentry tools and has the opportunity to purchase the corresponding material.
Contents of the material
- 1 Types of doors for the bath
- 1.1 Doors made of glass
- 1.1.1 Installation of glass doors
- 1.2 Doors with double glazing
- 1.2.1 Door installation
- 1.1 Doors made of glass
- 2 Wooden doors
- 2.1 Video: in detail - about the production of filtered woodenDoors
- 2.2 Manufacture of massive doors
- 2.2.1 Door size for baths
- 2.2.2 Door materials
- 2.2.3 Wood selection
- 2.2.4 Wood working tools
- 2.2.5 Production of doors from a massive board
- 2.2.6Video: how to install a wooden door withRUB
- 2.3 Frame door production
Type of door for the sauna
It is necessary to immediately note that to create the appropriate conditions in the bath will require not only one door, but at least two. One of them is installed at the entrance to the building itself, and the second - separates the steam room from the exterior. But if there are several rooms in the bath, in addition to the main ones, for example, a rest room, a shower, a washing machine, a bathroom, etc., and that door will require more, as each room meets a certain mode.
Several types of doors are used for installation in a bath. Basically, they are divided according to the material of production - it's glass, combined, consisting of wood and glass, euro-variants, which have high tightness, and traditional wooden, which can be called the most popular.
For the entrance door, baths, if not the only one, will fit almost any of the listed species. But each of them should be well insulated and provide the maximum possible closure closure density.
Doors made of glass
Glass doors, as a rule, are an attribute of saunas, separates a dry steam room from a vaporizer or a washer. They are produced in different colors, the surfaces of some models are decorated with drawings. Glass can be transparent, translucent or matte, mounted in a frame or attached to the door box with a special fittings.
Doors made of glass with their own hands make it quite difficult - they can only be installed on their own. Choosing such a door for the sauna, you must carefully consider the accessories attached to the product. Important criteria for choosing are the practicality, reliability and safety of these elements, and only then - their beauty.
Handles set in a glass canvas should not burn hands, and canopies - securely hold it in a box.
The glass doors for the sauna are always supplemented with silicone seals, which provide the necessary tightness when closing it.
As a latch, which ensures good locking of the door in the box when closing, a magnet is installed in the handle and the doorway. Such a lock is always workable and never zayed.
Occasionally, instead of magnets on the door, ball valves are installed. They are less reliable, since they start to jam up with time, so magnets for glass bathrooms - this is the best option.
It is recommended to choose models with three hinges, since they will not only hold more securely the fabric made from high-strength tempered glass with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm, but will also ensure comfortable opening and locking in closed form.
Door box for installation of a glass web is usually made of aluminum profile, in which it is convenient to install seals, and where perfectly fit the door. Thanks to these materials a completely waterproof kit comes out. The only weakness will be the sealers, which eventually wear out under the influence of high temperatures and high humidity, but these elements are not easy to periodically replace the new ones.
Installation of glass doors
To install any door of high quality, you need to calculate very precisely, and the glass version requires a special approach.
- The glass doors are installed in a box, without a threshold, and thus there is a gap of 5 ÷ 7 mm between the floor and the sheet for free movement.
- It is very important when installing the kit to perfectly correct the installation of the door box, as the glass door cloth to fit it will not work. Therefore, the vertical and horizontal parts of the box should be located strictly at right angles to each other, otherwise the door may not enter the decorated hole or tightly adhere to the doorway.
- The carton is exposed at the building level and attached to the wall by screws. The box should be slightly smaller than the doorway, so that when installed it was possible to level and fix in the desired position, sprayed with wooden wedges, through which and screwed into the wall of the screws.
- formed between the box and the wall of the gap filled with a mounting foam, protruding beyond its excess after the hardening is cut off.
- Next, in a special slot in the box is a silicone sealant.
- If the box is installed securely and correctly, it will easily hang a glass door. In the finished canvas there are openings for mounting sheds - they need to be carefully fixed, not forgetting to install between metal and glass special silicone linings.
- After that the door is exposed and screwed to the stand.
- The next step is to fix the latch handles. This moment should not be difficult - for them, just like for sheds, special openings are provided.
- In the last step, the false gaps between the wall and the box are closed with decorative trims.
Today, glass doors are increasingly preferred by wood or combined. They are used for different types of baths, but the only thing to be prepared for - is a fairly high price on the door leafs made of glass.
Doors with double-glazed windows
For the entrance doors in the bathhouse well-fitted metal-plastic doors with insulation. It hermetically closes and prevents the inside of the rooms from cold air entering the room, the bath room on the side of the entrance is not extinguished.
is suitable. This door is suitable for a shower room, as well as a lounge, but for a steam room you can safely choose a wooden panel with a fixed double-glazed window.
As the bath rooms have a high humidity, they choose a door made of oak, cedar or larch. This wood has a dense structure, therefore almost does not absorb moisture, and with appropriate processing becomes moisture-proof.
A modern wooden door, equipped with a double-glazed window, consists of a wooden frame reinforced with aluminum inserts. One or more double-glazed windows may be installed in the canvas, which create additional lighting for the room.
Such doors do not require special maintenance or periodic repairs, as wood-treated specialist technology not only does not react to moisture and does not swell, but also does not crumble. Due to this, there are no cracks in it, and it does not require them to be laid and periodically painted. The surface of the cloth only needs to be cleaned with a soft cloth, and the windows are cleaned on both sides with the help of a window cleaner.
Keep these doors much longer than conventional wood, without any worries.
Installation of doors
Installation of a box of doors with a double-glazed window is largely similar to the installation of a jumper for glass doors. It should also be set to level and aligned with wooden spacers. But to the wall the box is more often attached to special metal lining or through the boxes fixed on the boxes "ears".
Slabs formed around the box when installed, are also laid with a mounting foam, and then closed with cabinets that should be complete with a door box and a cloth.
The door itself is mounted on a mounted box - it is put on sheds. The convenience of this option lies in the fact that all the connecting elements are already fitted and fixed on the door and the box, it remains only to merge them into a single design.
Despite the emergence of modern designs, wooden doors for baths are not out of fashion, as they are traditional for these buildings. They are made of larch and cedar, pine and oak, that is, wood that is well resistant to high humidity. Doors for a bath make a panel, massive or frame multilayered.
- The massive doors are made of thick, the size of the dried fir-board. For doors, which are installed at the entrance to the steam room, the necessary elements are the transverse bars - so-called keyboards. They are necessary for reliable fastening of boards shield, prevention of its deformation. These crossbars are mounted in two places of the canvas. Sometimes, if necessary, they are supplemented by a diagonal subcosm.
- The film-walled doors are more complicated to fabricate, as they consist of several curly parts that should be assembled into a single sheet and ideally fitted to each other.
sectional doors The film-fronted door is perfect for installing at the entrance to the sauna, but it will not be very correctly installed in the steam room. Fairly significant temperature differences can negatively affect the combination of individual parts of such a design.
Video: in detail - about the manufacture of partitioned wooden doors
- And on this scheme it is clearly shown how a multilayered frame door can be arranged in a steam room. In this case, the door is composed of:
It should be noted that a multi-layer door is more suitable for saunas, since dry steam is used for these procedures. It is recommended to install a massive, collected from thick boards to a steam bath in the Russian bath.
The production of massive doors
It will be difficult to make film-framed doors with no experience, but from the massive one - you can try, taking into account some recommendations and following the sequence of works.
The size of the door for the sauna
In the construction of the bath, all actions should be aimed at preserving the premises in the desired temperature. Important stages are qualitative insulation, vapor barrier, internal and external furnish. Particular importance are the height of the ceiling and the size of the doors and windows. In a bath, door and window openings tend to be smaller in size than in residential buildings. So, the entrance to the steam room is usually limited to a height of 1600 ÷ 1700 mm. This is done so that pairs are kept longer inside the room and when opening the door does not go out. In the old Russian baths, the doors were even lower, the doorways were only 1450 to 1500 mm high.
The width of the entrance to the steam room is 600 ÷ 750 mm, while the doorway in the living room is arranged in the main at 800 mm.
Slot for entering a steam bath Russian bath must necessarily have a high threshold, not less than 150-200 mm. The threshold and the size of the door will be deducted. If a passage passes into the sauna, then the threshold is not necessary, and between 5 mm and 10 mm between the door leaf and the floor leave a ventilation gap.
Depending on the design of the door, different building materials may be required. It is necessary to note,
For manufacturing of doors from a massive board you need:
- Bar for cross bars - keypads, section 50 × 45 mm.
- Shaped board with a "groove-spike" lock, 50 mm thick, its width must be a multiple width of the door.
- Hinges made of stainless steel 3 pc.
- Two-way wooden door handle.
- Box for 60x80 mm cross-section.
For the production of a prefabricated door, you need to prepare:
- A beam for binding and a box with a section of 60 × 80 mm.
- Shaped board, section 36 × 120 mm.
- Wooden panel, size 12 x 96 mm
- Hinges 3 pc.
- Door handle 2 pcs.
- Pins for fastening of furniture details.
Selection of wood
It is necessary to say separately about the choice of wood for the manufacture of doors, as it depends on quality and durability. The breed of the tree was mentioned above, therefore, only a few words about the quality of the material.
It is recommended to choose the so-called "business wood", which has the minimum number of knots, and if they are, then they should be light color and small size.
Optimum humidity of wood for comfortable handling and its good "behavior" after construction - 12-15%.It is best to get lumber, dried in a special chamber - such details do not precisely deform, but they will not lead.
Boards and boards must be checked for equality by placing them on an even surface and trying to combine them together. They should not have the form of a wave or be propelled in the form of a propeller.
Boards are chosen for the required thickness, which can range from 25 to 50 mm. Before applying the material, it must be brought to a smooth state with a grinder or manually - fine-grained sandpaper. For convenience, nazarene can be fastened to a section of a wooden bar.
Tools for wood working
To work with wood, you need to have the following tools at hand:
- Electric saw or saw blades with different size of teeth.
- Hammer ordinary rubber.
- Grinding machine and sandpaper of various grain sizes.
- Strips for compression of a glued shield.
- Manual or stationary milling machine - this will greatly simplify a number of operations.
- Building level.
- Roulette or Folding Meter.
Doors manufacturing from a massive board
When it comes to work, it should be kept in mind that the door of the steam room should be opened only from the outside - it is necessary for security. Hinges and hinges are placed on the outside to avoid the effect on them of high humidity and temperature.
The installation of doors in a wooden frame has a very important feature. When the hole is drilled, the relationship between logs is weakened, and this must be compensated in some way. The second feature - a wooden frame gives a fairly significant shrinkage, and this process is quite long and difficult to predict. Therefore, the opening for the doors always do much more than the box itself and the canvas. The optimum is to leave at least 100 mm of stock.
To prevent a crash in a log door, the logs or bars should be tied to one common vertical part. There are two ways to do this:
levers • Select the material from the ends of the deck in the cut so that the spike( item 1) will be loaded onto which the details of the door box will be worn - a corresponding groove is prepared for this purpose.
- Cut into the doorway a groove( key 2), in which the timber is inserted( pos. 3), which becomes a spike to install the window doors on it. This method is considered to be better and easier to execute.
In any case, the doorbell is given a certain degree of freedom - it is not tight to the logs of the log, which will not allow the door structure to skew during shrinkage or re-wedge.
Video: how to install a door in a wooden block
Illustration A brief description of the performed operation
If the door is to be mounted in a log bath, before installing the door box, a vertical groove is cut into the end part of the log for the laying of a 50x60 mm bar, which deepens into the log by 30 mm.
The bar should be fairly free so that it has the ability to move it up and down but not to hang in the groove. Not on glue, nor on the fastening elements, the bar is not fixed
The supporting piece of the beam will serve as a spike to install on it joist elements, in which the miller selects the P-shaped grooves.
At the door, the slots are also cut into which the bar is set. This reliable fastening of the box on the end of the walls will allow you to hang on it even the most difficult door.
The door frame itself is made of 60x80 mm beam. On its broad side and carries a groove, which is pinched with a spike, mounted in the side of the wall.
After preparing the elements of the box, it is fixed in a hole and in a predefined threshold.
The gap between the top jumper of the jumper and the hole is 100 mm.
As the door of the steam room should open outside, the inside edge of the box is glued and screwed with a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm, its width is determined depending on the thickness of the door.
Another, more complex option - milling of the ledge throughout the length of the door parts.
Then the exact dimensions are removed from the outside of the box and the door leaf will be made.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account the gaps between the canvas and the door box - they should be about 4 mm, as it is expected to operate in conditions of high humidity.
Next you can go to the manufacture of doors. Prepared for a canvas board is marked and sprayed in size.
When collecting boards from boards, it is necessary to ensure that the structural figure of the annual rings is the same.
Boards are laid out on a flat work bench and are assembled in a single plane on joinery glue. If necessary they are hammered with a rubber hammer - they must be tightly fitted to each other.
After folding the boards into a shield, on one side of the finished cloth the spike remains neatly cut off, and the edge is processed.
Then, in two or three places, the collected shield is pressed with a clamp and remains until it is completely dry.
Next, the entire surface should be aligned, if necessary, with an electric plank.
It is often additionally used to cut the shield with a miller, achieving an ideally even surface of its edges.
The finished shield needs to be fastened on the outside by cross-shields - made of logs. The length of the keys should be equal to the width of the finished shield.
The diagram shows the shape and size of such dashboards. Usually they are performed in the form of a straight prism with an isosceles trapezoid in the section.
When you make a key, it is stacked with a wide side on the shield surface and outline the lines that carry the amount of depth of the part in the shield.
In the shield, the slabs are made, first on the one hand, and then on the other, with the angle of the slope of the side faces of the keys. The depth of the figured groove should be about 10 ÷ 15 mm. Next, the wood is carefully removed with the help of a chisel from the groove.
If there is a tool and skills, instead of a chisel it is more convenient to apply a miller.
A joiner glue is applied to the finished groove, and then the key itself is hammered from the side. In order for it to go there easier, the bottom plane of the groove must be made as smoothly as possible.
By installing a key in the groove, it can be hammered with a rubber hammer.
This will look like a doorbell with installed jumpers - dangles.
On the finished shield with installed cross rolls, hinged loops are tightened. After that the place of fixing the corresponding parts of the loops is marked on the door box. To do this, remove the exact size between the loops on the door and transfer them to the box jumper.
After determining the exact location, the loops are fixed to the doorway, and then the door is hung on them.
In conclusion, wooden handles are installed on the door on both sides.
Manufacturing of frame door
This type of door differs from the option made from massive boards, because the elements of the sheathing are mounted on a timber frame.
lintel If the door is planned to be made in a thickness of 50 mm, which will be covered with a wooden panel of 10 mm on both sides, then for a frame, it is necessary to take a beam in thickness of 30 mm. For ease of attachment, the width of the beam can range from 60 to 80 mm, especially important for the extreme vertical bars.
- The first step is to prepare a frame for frame manufacturing. The simplest fastening of frame elements is a connection "in half a tree."
For this purpose, grooves are cut at the edges of the beam, the length is equal to the width of the beam, and the depth is half the thickness, in this case - 15 mm.
The joining of the beam is carried out with the help of glue and wooden nails. To begin, the details of the frame are glued, clamped with clamps. After the glue has dried up, through-holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm are drilled in them, which cautiously clog the nougat on the glue.
This picture shows in detail how the elements of the frame are combined in a "half-timbered" way, and where nuggets are hammered.
- Frameworks can have different designs, but the simplest consists of a frame, which is assembled from a bar with one or two transverse bandages.
In this figure, the types of bundle for filo-doors are presented, but they can also be used as structures for the framework of the frame door.
- The frame must have a certain rigidity, and all its corners, both external and internal, must be verified by a square. In addition, you must necessarily check the size of the diagonals - it should be the same.
- If it is planned to make a door with glass in a certain place, then this should be foreseen in the frame. Additional glass bars are installed to install the glass, inside the main frame, in the form of a frame. This makes work a bit complicated.
For doors that lead to the rest room, you can use for lining sheets of moisture resistant MDF instead of lining. The sheeting of this door is mounted in such a sequence, starting with the bottom layer:
- The first on the frame is fixed vapor barrier material, as to protect the heater in wet conditions without it can not do without it.
- Then, on a frame of a frame is fixed a sheet MDF, sawdust with its sizes.
- Next, a heater is placed between the frame bars. Here you can use foam polystyrene, in this case, a thickness of 30 mm, or mineral wool. In any case, the material should be as tight as possible between the frame skeleton.
- One more vapor barrier layer is fixed to the top of the heater.
Then the whole "pie" is covered by the upper canvas MDF.But nevertheless, most often the door for a bath is used wooden lining.
- After clamping the door with a wicker door, the pens are fixed. These elements are usually made of wood or are obtained in finished form.
- Door When the door is ready, it is hung on the door frame, which is made and installed as described in the first version, if it is mounted in a log wall.
If the wall is constructed from another material, then the box is made from a prepared beam size. The box should be less than a door opening of 30 ÷ 35 mm - this will allow you to put the box firmly and fix it with wedges.
- mounting foam The exposed box is fixed to the walls through the wedges of the spacers, and the gap between the wall and the box is filled with mounting foam.
- Then loops are mounted on the door system, and the door is mounted to its place.
- The final stage is the installation of cabinets that will close the gaps and add designs to completion.
In conclusion, it should be noted that any doors to do independently, without experience in carpentry art and knowledge of all the intricacies of calculations and manufacturing, is very difficult. In addition, for the door to look "professionally", it requires special hand tools and carpentry appliances that are expensive enough to work on it. Buying them only for the sake of manufacturing one door is unprofitable - it will be cheaper to order a ready-made design from an experienced wizard.
Think about the doors in advance!
What will be the doors in the building to be built - need to be resolved at the stage of the initial design. As in general, the drawing up of the project is considered on the example of the 4x5 bath with the attic , in a special article of our portal.